That was one of the really cool features of the OG steam controller (and the deck too but I don’t use as much), pads can totally be setup to emulate a trackball and the haptics were weirdly good and giving you feedback. I found it really solid for games like warframe, that and gyro aiming (which I’ve never gelled with on the deck) felt pretty solid to me.

Otherwise, the trackpads can be used for things like rotary menus too which I definitely get a lot more use out of.

Yeah, I’ve seen a lot of it for two things.

First being sqlserver, though that’s been able to run on linux for a long time now, there’s a bunch of features not supported but not a deal breaker for a lot of people, I haven’t encountered ssis or ssas in years for example.

Second being Internet Information Services (IIS), which some people really seem to like.

Wouldn’t be surprised if active directory required a windows machine either, definitely a bunch of cases I’m not considering or aware of but I’m no sysadmin.

I haven’t looked at Nix in detail but you got me interested for 3d printers in particular, already have my klipper config in git if an SD card fails on me, going to have to look at doing that for the os too.

Are you married to the idea of wireless? The old suggestion of decent headphones and a mic are imo the best way to do things. I’ve got an old blue yeti I use when I need a mic, but been considering getting a modmic to attach to my headphones. I ran with a pair of Beyerdynamic DT-880s for over a decade as my daily drivers with a FiiO DAC/amp combo, use a k5 pro now with some DT 1990s and found that to be a great combo.

Just make sure you’ve got good gloves/respiration and ventilation if you go MEK, as far as I recall it’s not nearly as aggressive with petg like acetone and abs so going to take some time. The solvent method is by far the one I use the most often, I wet a rag or paper towel and take my time. I recall vapour smoothing being a thing too but that’s going to need setup and the like.

I can’t comment on the other ones unfortunately, but there are a ton of mods available for Vorons that are still coming out. They’re solid platforms and Greta if you’re someone who likes to tinker, imo they’re also super solid as “just print” device. I’ve got mine with canbus and built a filament changer, but there’s tool changer mods I’ve seen as well.

If you do go for a voron, I’d suggest a trident. I have a 2.4 but I recently built a fixed gantry printer like how the trident is setup, it’s a lot easier to work with.

Yeah there’s absolutely a rating to look for and N95 is part of that, stateside, you have niosh ratings, you’ll see these wrt industrial ppe, but there are ratings for use with CN and CS gas. My experience with them is the chemical cartridges usually have a p100 filter combined with them for particulate too. Organic Vapour & Acids are easy to get a hold of (Used these when i worked in O&G), I don’t know how well they’d work against teargas unfortunately.

I will 100% recommend north full face, a half mask is probably better than nothing but the full face gives you eye protection too. I didn’t personally like the 3m style masks, but it’s all down to personal preference, just make sure it fits correctly.

Swap nozzles? I’ve had issues in the past with partial clogs with petg in particular, at the least it’ll remove a variable from your troubleshooting. Also echo what others have suggested and check out your filament path, make sure there’s not somewhere else causing an issue. I feel like dusty filament could potentially contribute to clogs, if you’re concerned with that there’s designs out there for in line wipers that pass the filament through some soft sponge.

Do you have any resistance feeding the filament? I’ve had a few cases where either the filament kinda tangled due to slack and would still be able to feed but needed more force, bad enough it can actually wear the filament in the extruder and won’t advance anymore. Extra friction from tight tubing, small radius bends, cardboard spools etc. can do that too. Check your settings for the tension spring as well, too tight can totally cause issues that will look like this and make you chase ghosts.

I run a fan like this one on mine (9.9 cfm/0.277 m³/min), the ones that push more air get loud quick just as a heads up, this one I was also looking at, is 12.2 cfm/0.342 m³/min but is 39 vs 31.4 dB, I did a bunch of fan upgrades last year for both better performance and less fan noise, these will be noticeable. Don’t get heat blockages but do have some oozing I really need to get around to tuning.

The only times I’ve had that happen was when the sheet wasn’t clean enough (which yours definitely is if you’ve scrubbed it with dishsoap), bed temps too low or first layer being too close to the bed (though the textured sheet wants more squish)

The satin sheet is imo their best sheet, buildtak does some great surfaces in that size (pei sheet is great for even abs, their new surfaces are great too). I moved to using fr4/garolite sheets (I use this on my former mk3s, have a larger one for my voron too), not really found I needed adhesive for petg or pla on that.

Definitely cemented my thoughts about recommending a trident over a v2 though, I like the flying gantry (if only for the cool factor) but the fixed gantry and moving z of something like the trident is just far easier to work with imo.

For real, I already was calling it the mk3 of Theseus long before this, changed a lot of parts. Was trying to do somethings to pay homage to it though, colour choices for sure, big reason I wanted the middle frame from the original mk3s to be the front of the door, the mod I mostly used made it the front of the frame and I liked the look.

Have enough left over that I could mostly redo a bear mod mk3s, which I may totally do and give to my dad who’s been wanting to look at printing.

Mine live in my garage year round, I have a space heater for print days which has worked into into the -20c, lucky of I hit 5c ambient but enclosed printer helps. Have had no issues with the setup for years, it’s super dry in the winter so never had any issue with condensation, maybe a different story if I brought it in, but still idk if I’d be worried, you could use some dielectric grease if you’re really concerned but I personally think it’s overkill.

Cold enough things get brittle, but I wouldn’t be concerned for storage.

Bambu has what looks like a pinout in their troubleshooting docs. From your picture, that looks like a molex microfit connector to me so you could try making one if you’re comfortable doing so, good to have around imo regardless.

Other option there is to wait, confirm and document its pinout and then you have it if you ever need to repair that cable in the future.

You get a bag of haribo golden bears with the kit, manual has callouts after completing a section to treat them as a reward for completing a milestone, intro page talking about it

Linux has that for vulkan shaders but like, you still get compiling shaders when loading in bl4 even after that.

I don’t recall satisfactory having that issue and it’s ue5 afaik, hits a solid fps too even with global illumination on.

Yeah, tbf though I play through proton a lot, but any time I change resolution (like say, when I play through moonlight on my steamdeck) I get hit with a “compiling vulkan shaders” before the game actually launches on top of any compiling shaders in game. It’s usually pretty fast but there’s a few times it’ll take a while, and it happens on windows too, my partner had a bunch of times this week where they hit extended load in times (BL4 in particular) because of it.

I want to say ME Legendary Edition had periods where it’d compile shaders, some others for sure I recall needing to as well, ME:A, DA:I and Veilguard for sure I recall having to wait a bit.

Good to know that hdr works, and that other people are seeing the same edge flicker artifacts, it’s there on others (edges can get a bit shimmery with tsr) but really bad with dlss, I was wondering if it was lighting related but that point about atmospheric effects makes sense. Also tried messing about with the dlss version and settings, no dice unfortunately.

What launch options are you using if you don’t mind? I’ve had some adventures with hdr over the past year (GoW Ragnarok, CP2077 and ER run great, Horizon Zero Dawn absolutely hates it and will black screen with it on with or without gamescope) would love to have that going. I’ll definitely try the texture streaming setting too , some of the stuttering was super noticeable when I first booted it, definitely got better after some time.

My partner gifted me the copy, they’re on windows so (unsurprisingly) windows/linux coop works too. For what it’s worth, I was running it through sunshine to my steamdeck later yesterday and was a pretty solid experience.

I’ll give it a try, thanks!

What proton version are you running? I tried with the latest proton he.

I didn’t find the auto detect super helpful, kept trying to run at very high with full res, was not stellar. Was able to get decent frames with dlss + frame gen, balanced on high, dropping from 3440x1440 to 2560x1080 went into the 100s, dlss looks really bad with it though, like the edge artifacts are rough looking. Settled on tsr, find fsr really blurry, and no frame gen.

Didn’t do matchmaking, but co-op with my partner worked just fine.

I tried on the steamdeck, didn’t tweak much, didn’t expect it to be great but don’t think I expected PowerPoint level frames.

Edit, specs 4070ti 11900k 32 GB ram On arch with most recent drivers

FiiO has some that aren’t super pricey (they run a range, their entry level stuff is usually really affordable), their amps and DACs are pretty solid in my experience so I’d totally look into one, second hand would definitely be an option there too.